13/16 vs the 370NM load

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alabamabowman
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13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by alabamabowman »

Has anyone else experienced tighter patterns with Hal's 13/16 ounce .410 load over the 370NM? I was really hoping the 370NM would pattern better because the pressure is lower and it has a few more pellets. I'm shooting the Yildiz. .410 barrel cut and choked by Sumtoy. I am bore snaking between each shot, but the 370NM patterns are much more open. Just wondering if there is something I need to do differently. Does anyone place a small amount of buffer to take out some of the rattle? Will this help the pattern?
Thanks
Russ

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GLS
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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by GLS »

Pinch a bit of styrofoam peanut and put it on top of load so that it sticks above the wad. Crimp. It'll control rattle for awhile. To get more pellets in the 10" use #10 shot. What are your numbers? Gil
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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by duurmeehr »

alabamabowman wrote: March 28th, 2018, 12:08 pm Has anyone else experienced tighter patterns with Hal's 13/16 ounce .410 load over the 370NM? I was really hoping the 370NM would pattern better because the pressure is lower and it has a few more pellets. I'm shooting the Yildiz. .410 barrel cut and choked by Sumtoy. I am bore snaking between each shot, but the 370NM patterns are much more open. Just wondering if there is something I need to do differently. Does anyone place a small amount of buffer to take out some of the rattle? Will this help the pattern?
Thanks
Russ

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I shot the 370NM yesterday out of my Stevens 555.

The numbers in the 10 were virtually identical to the 13/16 load.

What I did notice was the 370 shot low and a little left of the 13/16 load.

I put a little flax seed on top the shot to take up a little room but a little styrofoam as mentioned above will work as well. I really don't think the rattle hurts as long as the roll crimp is tight against the OSC and the OSC card is tight against the outside of the wad.

What I don't like is how loose the .410 tps wad is in the Cheddite hull. The dang think falls all the way to the bottom of the hull when you set it in there empty. I thought about a piece of tyvex disk cupped around the bottom of the gas seal to act like an oring on the outside to keep the powder underneath the wad.

I wonder if an OSC crammed in the bottom over the powder and under the wad would raise pressure as tight as they are in there since it was tested with just the loosy goosy wad in there?
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turkeyinstrut
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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by turkeyinstrut »

You can talk to Hal about it but that is exactly what he told me to do (OSC on top of powder) when I was loading one of his 28 ga. recipes, damn TPS wads would just fall down in the Cheddite hulls. I think that's about the only way to prevent powder migration past the wads gas seal, upon ignition it helps the seal swell and gives much better consistency in pressures and velocity's. JMO
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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by howl »

Does the wad from one load make it closer to the target than the other?
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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by 2Shooter »

I had the 13/16 oz do 199 in the 10” at 40 yards with 10’s, and the 370NM do 174 in the 10” at 40 yards with 10’s. But at 50 yards the 13/16 load fell of to 68 in the 10, and the 370NM was 130 in the 10. Speed make a difference at 50 yards.
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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by turkeyinstrut »

howl wrote: March 28th, 2018, 6:32 pm Does the wad from one load make it closer to the target than the other?
Howl, I didn't know if this question was directed at me but if it was, I didn't load any without the OSC, the wad fit so loose I knew there would be a powder migration problem and there is no way there could have been any consistency in velocity.
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alabamabowman
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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by alabamabowman »

I haven't counted the 370nm, but was getting 170s in the 10" and 150s in the 20" with the 13/16. You could just tell it was more open. I will try the styrfoam and overshot card over the phone trick regardless.

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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by jhogue »

Bought all stuff to load .410 and rolled my first shell last night. When I inspected the wad, I remembered a thread from last year about a blown .410 pattern. Whomever posted it ultimately determined that the slits in their wads weren't consistently cut from the factory and I thought he said he cut the slits on through to fix the problem. I didn't find that thread in a search this morning. Is everyone using the TPS wad as is, or cutting slits uniformly? I asked Hal and he said the wads are built to open up. I'm new to the .410 game and want to profit from previous experience as much as possible to do it as close to right from the beginning. Thanks!

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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by jhogue »

I searched the wrong forum. The thread wasn't in small bore, but over in Hanloading. So, with a year of experience behind this issue, how do most of you do your .410 TPS wads? Shoot them as is or cut the slits down?

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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by GLS »

Always slit wads. An unslit wad will tumble and will often go down range with the gas seal forward like a badminton shuttle cock. I learned this by patterning 10 gauge loads with partially slit wads or with only two slits. We'd dig out the Pattern Driver wads that penetrated 3/4" plywood at 40 yards and still held partial loads of shot. Lightly stitched wads such as the .410 tps are okay as is. Gil
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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by bullethead »

jhogue wrote: January 26th, 2019, 9:56 am I searched the wrong forum. The thread wasn't in small bore, but over in Hanloading. So, with a year of experience behind this issue, how do most of you do your .410 TPS wads? Shoot them as is or cut the slits down?

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I was involved in that old thread.
The 410 TPS wad petals are designed to flare open upon firing, but they do not consistently or uniformly.
I make sure that all the petals are separated before I load the wad into the shell. I just run my little finger down into the wad and flare the petals out making sure the slits between the petals are the same length.
Patterns have been uniform since doing that.
Tungsten tinkerer from way back.
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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by jhogue »

bullethead wrote:
jhogue wrote: January 26th, 2019, 9:56 am I searched the wrong forum. The thread wasn't in small bore, but over in Hanloading. So, with a year of experience behind this issue, how do most of you do your .410 TPS wads? Shoot them as is or cut the slits down?

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I was involved in that old thread.
The 410 TPS wad petals are designed to flare open upon firing, but they do not consistently or uniformly.
I make sure that all the petals are separated before I load the wad into the shell. I just run my little finger down into the wad and flare the petals out making sure the slits between the petals are the same length.
Patterns have been uniform since doing that.
Thanks for the input, so you leave the small connections in the wad attached at the top and just check for uniformity in slits below? Is there any issue with cutting the slits down to just be sure? No experience with this type of wad and others having some issues makes me want to eliminate issues if possible.

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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by GLS »

He got more consistent results by freeing open the slits by breaking through the "stitches" (small connections).
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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by pedro »

Loaded up some 370 loads with 10s and opened up the wad. We will see the results later this winter.
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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by crenshawco »

Any of yall know if the .430 nitro cards in this link would fit inside the power cup of the TPS wad? If so that would give a better gas deal option too

https://www.ballisticproducts.com/mobil ... fo/NC/430/
as6385
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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by as6385 »

i have read that taking the end of a sharpie and flaring the cup on the tps wad before insert helps and from my experience it does!
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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by bullethead »

jhogue wrote: February 1st, 2019, 3:14 pm
bullethead wrote:
jhogue wrote: January 26th, 2019, 9:56 am I searched the wrong forum. The thread wasn't in small bore, but over in Hanloading. So, with a year of experience behind this issue, how do most of you do your .410 TPS wads? Shoot them as is or cut the slits down?

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I was involved in that old thread.
The 410 TPS wad petals are designed to flare open upon firing, but they do not consistently or uniformly.
I make sure that all the petals are separated before I load the wad into the shell. I just run my little finger down into the wad and flare the petals out making sure the slits between the petals are the same length.
Patterns have been uniform since doing that.
Thanks for the input, so you leave the small connections in the wad attached at the top and just check for uniformity in slits below? Is there any issue with cutting the slits down to just be sure? No experience with this type of wad and others having some issues makes me want to eliminate issues if possible.

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As GLS stated, I break through all of the little stitches and make sure that the slits between the individual wad petals are an even distance.
Tungsten tinkerer from way back.
duurmeehr
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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by duurmeehr »

jhogue wrote: January 26th, 2019, 9:56 am I searched the wrong forum. The thread wasn't in small bore, but over in Hanloading. So, with a year of experience behind this issue, how do most of you do your .410 TPS wads? Shoot them as is or cut the slits down?

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That was my fiasco. bullethead and GLS helped figure that one out.

Here was the thread: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=16450&p=173098#p173098

Turned out one of the four slits on some of the TPS wads in the bag were not even slit at all from the factory. There was a scratch mark but no cut at all. You couldn't tell without knowing to look for it.

Since then I break the stitch at top and run my razor knife from top of wad to bottom of factory slit and all of the slits.

Haven't had a problem since!
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Re: 13/16 vs the 370NM load

Post by GLS »

A friend recently reported to me that the 370NM out of his Yildiz single-shot with a Sumtoy choke had good 40 yard numbers in the 10", but hardly any shot in the 10-20 ring which indicated to him more flyers than the 13/16 oz. load which consistently had good numbers in the 10" with higher numbers in the 10-20 than the 370 NM. I suspect this will vary gun to gun.
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